The night was over, and the day was coming again. We packed up and walked along the grassy banks of flower fields, highlighted in the middle of the earth and sky by the bright yellow of the vast array of cabbage blossoms. The color of the yellow mustard blossoms is as bright as the afternoon sun left in the middle of the hills. The color of the flowers remains fresh despite the blowing of cold and dry winds. The many thin and tiny mustard blossoms seduce millions of wild bees for honey. Mustard blossoms have a rustic beauty amid prosperity.
We visited India’s oldest cave, Barabar, where highly virtuous monks once practiced. I had exhausted myself to get here. I had fallen behind because of stomach aches. My stomach was hungry. My intestines were constricted. With each step, the strength and energy are drained out. Step by step, I drag my tired legs along the planned route. My teammates abandoned me in the middle of a battlefield full of “bombs and mines” (see footnote). I walked alone on the long road through poor villages filled with shacks that were plastered with cow dung. Women with bare hands knead fresh cow dung into round cakes to dry. In the rainy season, it would be those cakes that they use for fires.
We came along the bank of the Niranjara River towards Bodhgaya. The shallow river runs in the northeast-to-southwest direction. Currently, it is known to the locals as the Lilajan River; historically, it was known as the Niranjara River. The gentle river flows through many dark and deep regions of the midland part of India. The river’s history has bestowed upon it a sacred mission. Niranjara River – that name has been associated with the attainment of a great man of this world. It was there that a significant event related to the life of the Buddha took place before his enlightenment.
Across the river, in front of us was an old lumpy Banyan tree, wide enough for 20 people to link arms around it, branches held aloft in the air. The place was believed to be the home of the Kassapa brothers and a thousand disciples, who worshiped the God of fire. All of them were later ordained by the Buddha and became Arahants. Not far from this place is the shrine marking the spot where the Bodhisatta received milk-rice pudding from Lady Sujātā. She used to come here to worship a God, begging him that she may have a firstborn son.
His body was exhausted after spending six years of self-mortification in Uruvela Forest. However, he still did not realize the path of liberation. After exhausting his strength and no longer being able to stand or move his feet, He received a bowl of milk-rice pudding offered by Sujātā. After finishing the bowl of milk-rice pudding, feeling rejuvenated, he realized that the path of the saint was the middle path. He came to the bank of the Niranjara River and threw the bowl into the water with the vow, “If I can achieve enlightenment, this bowl should float up the river.” Indeed, when the bowl just reached the surface of the water, it immediately drifted upstream and sank into the deep riverbed touching the bowls of the Buddhas of the past. He then affirmed that his chosen path was right and was sure he would become a Buddha. He walked down this river to wash and crossed the bank to find a place to practice the path he had just recognized.
After so many years, the river is still there. The river’s gentle flow gives people who visit that place a feeling of peacefulness and sacredness. The place where the river passes, imprinted with the footprints of the Enlightened One, has become a place of eternal peace.
Walking through the Sujātā Stupa not far from the river, the Vice Abbot of Wat Thai Buddhagaya and Sổ (the Yellow dog) were waiting for the group. Sổ (Yellow) had already walked with the monks five times, and now, he will again accompany the Sangha. But perhaps he will not be lonely anymore because Āloka will be his companion. The presence of Sổ and Āloka makes the group look even mightier.
At sunset, in the middle of the Niranjara River, from a distance, we saw the majestic, splendid and harmonious appearance of the Great Stupa of Bodhgaya (Mahābodhi Stupa) hidden intermittently in the smoke and haze. My inner self burst into tears of happiness, clasping my hands towards the Mahābodhi Stupa and the Mahābodhi Tree with irrepressible emotion. Father!!! I’m back – the wayward son, after 20 days of struggling on this long and dusty road, always on the move, amidst the uncertainty of the vast earth and sky. Now, with the will and perseverance I have mustered to carry on day by day, I have returned upon these very feet. Although my effort is a trifle, with all my earnest reverence, I would like to offer it to you, the Good Father.
The foot-traveling Sangha finally arrived at the sacred land, the Holy Land of Bodhgaya, in the Gaya district, Bihar state, India. The place where Gotama Buddha was enlightened more than 2,500 years ago is a pilgrimage destination that Buddhists worldwide wish to visit at least once in their lifetime.
We circumambulated the main hall of the Wat Royal Thai Buddhagaya temple to pay our respects. Here, Āloka encountered a mighty squad of elite four-legged soldiers that attacked him. I never saw Āloka show fear in front of any opponent during our travels together. This time, Āloka was so frightened that he couldn’t walk. He cowered in fear even though the monks and I tried to protect him. The elite troops were determined not to retreat despite us holding sticks in our hands. The two monks helped me carry the bag and bowl so that I could carry Āloka. With him on my lap, I felt every fiber of his muscles tremble continuously. Two other monks walked on either side of us with sticks to chase away the elite troops, while another two monks walked behind and after us to guard Āloka and me. Through the terrifying experience, Āloka knew he did not belong here, so he stayed close to us for protection.
(Note: landmines here refers to the excrement of people, buffaloes, cows, goats, horses, etc., which pilgrims often jokingly refer to as “mines”.)
Source: Dhammacetiya
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