March 21-28, 2023
We continued our walk towards a Buddhist school that we often hear about: the renowned Nalanda University. The site is located near Rājagaha (Rājagaha, Rajgir), about 90km from the capital Patna, in the present-day village of Bada Ganon. Before arriving at the town, we came across Sukho again. He had traveled over 70km, a day and a half journey from where he was lost, and we were surprised to see his scratched and dirty body without his collar. It seemed as if Sukho had been following the scent of the monks, Sổ, Āloka, and Karuṇā day and night. However, this time we noticed he was not as timid as before. We wondered if he had experienced intense battles on his journey to find us, which helped him overcome his fear. It was inspiring to witness Sukho’s iron heart and soul as he followed the path of the Buddha’s footsteps.
I faced a tough challenge together with Sukho on this occasion. Our leader took us in the opposite direction onto a railway bridge that was only wide enough for one person. Underneath the bridge flowed a river. Sổ, Karuṇā, and Āloka were able to cross with minimal guidance. As for Sukho, he was so scared and nervous that he couldn’t bring himself to move, and his legs were shaking uncontrollably. I had to carry him across the bridge while making way for young people and girls coming from the opposite direction.
With Sukho weighing 26kg and two bags on my shoulders, each weighing more than 15kg, I was exhausted and thirsty. My spine was numb from carrying a heavy load since morning over a long journey of 40km. Finally, we made it across the bridge, but I continued to struggle as I walked on the dusty red dirt road in the scorching sun. Feeling dizzy, with blurred vision and shortness of breath, I fell to my knees, only to be caught by a young monk, who had stopped to wait for me since he noticed I seemed unwell. If he hadn’t stopped to help, I might have fainted without anyone knowing.
He contacted another member of the organizing committee to come back and help me walk, as the road from our current location to the overnight rest was quite far. After walking for what seemed like miles, we finally arrived at the designated location as dusk approached. Exhausted, I arranged the accommodations, tended to Āloka, and finally went to sleep. After laying down, a great sense of relief washed over me from a restful night’s sleep.
Returning to Nalanda University, Dr. Hiranand Shastri explained the origin of its name: “Nalanda” is derived from two Sanskrit words, “Nalam” and “Da.” “Nalam” means the lotus stem, representing Wisdom, while “Da” means giver. Therefore, Nalanda renders “giver of wisdom,” as it is a Buddhist school that imparts Wisdom to others.
In the past Nalanda used to be a thriving location, with a large population of steadfast supporters of the teachings of the Buddha. Notably, two prominent disciples of the Buddha, Sāriputta and Moggallāna, hailed from this region. After the passing of Venerable Sāriputta, his remains were placed in the third stupa of the university and venerated.
Nalanda was a significant Buddhist university with over ten thousand students and two thousand professors. Its initial success was primarily attributed to the generous patronage of the Gupta dynasty’s kings, including Kumaragupta and Harshavardhana (606-47), as well as the Pala dynasty’s rulers. Unfortunately, in 1193, Nalanda was ravaged by the Turkish Muslim army under the leadership of Bakhtiyar Khilji. The entire university, along with all its scriptures, was destroyed, and the monks were subjected to heinous brutality, resulting in the downfall of Buddhism in India.
The brick foundations of the temples and towers, along with the massive rooms of the historical university, surrounded the Sangha as we chanted paritta suttas and made our way toward Rājagaha. This city holds great significance in the history of Buddhism. It is home to several places of pilgrimage, such as the Veḷuvana (Bamboo monastery), the Pippala Stone House, the Sattapaṇṇi Cave, the Bimbisāra Prison, the Jīvaka Mango Grove, the Gijjhakūṭa Mountain (The Vulture Peak), Maddakucchi, and more.
Bimbisāra Prison: One of the well-known stories is that Ajātasattu killed his father, King Bimbisāra, and usurped the throne. He imprisoned his father, slit his foot, and salted the injuries. Unfortunately, when he realized his mistake and sought to free his father, it was too late.
Gijjhakūṭa Mountain (The Vulture Peak): In an attempt to kill the Buddha, Devadatta rolled a stone down the mountain, but it only caused the Buddha’s big toe to lose one drop of blood.
In Rajgir (Rājagaha), for the first time, the Sangha was granted the freedom to travel wherever they pleased and to convene at a designated location. On a scorching summer afternoon, I, along with Āloka, Sukho, and a few other monks, journeyed up to Sattapaṇṇi Mountain, where a cave was nestled within the rocky mountain. The ascent to the cave comprised steps made of pink sandstone; under the sun’s rays, the stone surface became unbearably hot. Despite the discomfort of our bare feet burning on the stone surface, we eventually arrived at our destination, where Venerable Mahakassapa and five hundred Arahants assembled for the first time after the Buddha’s passing away.
Venerable Ananda, who served as the Buddha’s attendant and was well-versed in his teachings, was not permitted to attend the assembly because he had yet to achieve the Arahant status. However, Venerable Mahakassapa and the Arahant monks awaited Ananda’s arrival, confident that he would eventually attain enlightenment. After dedicated practice, Venerable Ananda grew weary and was about to lie down, but in the middle position between sitting and lying down, before his back touched the bed, he attained Arahantship and utilized supernatural abilities to appear before the assembly to start the First Buddhist Council.
Following our visit to pay our respects at Sattapaṇṇi Cave on the mountain, all of us, teacher and students, descended the mountain and proceeded towards Gijjhakūṭa Mountain. As we journeyed on, the temperature continued to rise, causing discomfort for our bare feet. To alleviate the strain, Āloka occasionally ran ahead and waited for me, and if I had not caught up yet, he would backtrack to accompany me. I empathize with Āloka and Sukho, who endured the hardships of climbing two mountains in one day.
#chuahuongdao #chuahuongdaotemple #sbsstupas
#buddha #buddhism #Dhutanga #dhammajourney
Source: Dhammacetiya
